from Iain Harper's Blog

“After gazing at the sky for some time, I came to the conclusion that such beauty had been reserved for remote and dangerous places, and that nature has good reasons for demanding special sacrifices from those who dare to contemplate it.”
 Richard E Byrd (1938)

The build up

One summer, years ago, I was backpacking with friends in the Peak District. We stopped for lunch in the dappled shade of some trees. I sat next to an elderly park volunteer taking a moment to enjoy his sandwiches from a satchel as weatherbeaten as he was. As we chatted, he mentioned in passing that as a young boy he had taken part in the 1932 Kinder Trespass with his father. Later, as we made our way towards our wild camp, the hot afternoon sun on our backs, I reflected on how much we take for granted. Just a generation and a half ago, our rights and freedoms were far from secure.

I can’t exactly remember when the conversations about the Spine Race began. Having completed the Lakeland 100 in 2013, I was looking for another challenge. By the time I was back at the 2014 Lakeland race volunteering, the Spine deposit had already been paid. I ran the majority of the 2013 Lakeland with Steve Jefferson. We formed a strong bond that got us to the end of one of the most arduous runnings of that brutal course. We both maintain that it was the other person who had the idea to enter the Spine. That probably says more about our mental stubbornness than anything else.

Nevertheless, we found ourselves poring over massive route print outs in the sun-drenched fields of the John Ruskin school. The winter race seemed a very long way away. We also met Emiko, another Lakeland volunteer, who was taking part in the Spine Challenger (a shorter, 100 mile version of the race)

The months from July onwards passed quickly. A one year old son, demanding job and study for a postgraduate degree left little time for training. Everyone I mentioned the race to asked “how do you train for that?”. For a long period of time, I didn’t really have an answer. I’d prepared for the Lakeland using an ultra marathon training plan of high weekly mileages with regular long, 30 mile plus runs. It was clear that the Spine would require a different approach that wasn’t immediately apparent.

In the end my training plan was mostly dictated by the limited time I had available. I tried to do whatever shorter, higher tempo runs I could during the week (a 6 mile dash up the hill behind my house was a favourite on summer evenings), but focused on trying to do a 30 mile plus run with full Spine kit at least once a fortnight. Steve and I had also scheduled a couple of training races. We ran the OMM in October. Unfortunately I dropped a horrendous navigational clanger (pretty sure I took a bearing with the map upside down) which resulted in us having a 14 hour first day and camping short of the overnight stop.

The Tour de Helvellyn in December went more smoothly and was a final chance to stretch the legs with full Spine kit. At 42 miles it’s about the same length as some of the Spine legs, with more ascent and descent. We both came away from the TdH feeling reasonably confident.

I originally got into ultra running via “extreme backpacking”. It seemed like a natural extension. During the research of my guide book to the Cape Wrath Trail, I made a couple of mid-winter expeditions to the Northwest Scottish highlands. Both trips featured extreme weather and remote, rough country. This and my other wilderness backpacking experiences meant that I already had most of the kit required for the race. It also meant that it was tried and tested in severe winter conditions. I’ll cover the kit in a separate post, but the right choices and familiarity with your equipment play a big role in race success.

The week before the race was not relaxing. Work was hectic and unrelenting, my young son was going through a not sleeping phase. Two nights before the race, my wife appeared next to me in the early hours with a screaming child and the words “I need your help, he won’t go back to sleep”. As I tried to console him in his cot, I remember feeling an overwhelming burden of the scale of the challenge and feeling devastatingly under prepared.

Grey sheets of rain lashed the narrow country roads as we arrived in Edale. Saying goodbye to my wife Kay and my son Innes, sleeping contentedly in the back of the car, was very hard. My guilt at an ongoing absence in their lives to undertake this selfish activity sat in my gut as I listened to the safety briefing.

Friday night was mainly occupied with registration and kit check. Steve and I saw a few familiar faces (Emiko, our friend from the Lakeland and Damian Hall who had been incredibly generous with pre-race advice). We grabbed a meal at the pub which was packed with Spine racers and Challengers. The warmth and camaraderie was hard to enjoy and I was glad to get a lift to the Youth hostel for an early night.

The next morning we chatted to Pavel Paloncy, last year’s winner, over breakfast and generally faffed about with kit. As we were lugging our bulging drop bags down to reception, word went around that the start of race had been delayed from 0930 until 1130 because of the high winds we could hear whistling around the hostel. By this stage, I just wanted to get going, but apparently the Challengers who had set off earlier were taking a pummelling on top of Kinder Scout and being blown over. We eventually got a lift up to the race start in the hostel minibuses. My makeshift drop bag (my wife’s massive flowery suitcase) had already been the source of much hilarity. This continued when I offered the lady packing the minibuses a hand. “It’s all right, I’m used to it”, she replied, “we get a lot of teenage girls staying here”. I hoped that Steve had missed this comment. Unfortunately he hadn’t.

There was much nervous milling at the start. As we clustered in the muddy field under the gantry, we must have resembled a strange mass of human jelly beans, the multi coloured hues of our waterproofs sticking out discordantly against the muted winter tones of the hills and the regular flurries of sleet. I didn’t much care about the weather, I was just delighted to get moving after a year of training.

The race

The first few hours of the race had a  surreal feel. The sheer amount of pent up nervousness and energy released made the situation hard to comprehend. The wind buffeted us as we contoured and started to climb to Kinder Downfall. As we approached the waterfall it was apparent that the wind was blowing it back up hill and over the path. Some competitors were making fairly lengthy detours to avoid the spray. As it was so early in the race we decided to brave it. We crossed the top of the waterfall, with gusts of wind blowing freezing sheets of spray over us. My gloves got soaked through, but I resisted stopping to put on my mitts as they were stashed in the top of my rucksack. Half an hour later my hands were so cold I was struggling to open a Mars Bar. I shouted to Steve and got him to dig out my mitts. An early and important lesson to have all my gear close to hand.

As we crossed the road at Snake Pass the late afternoon sun bathed the moorland in a weak orange glow and even Bleaklow Head seemed quiet and benign. That soon changed as we descended Clough Edge towards Torside reservoir. The skies turned a foreboding slate grey and a much lengthier sleet blizzard blew in, forcing hoods up and heads down.

The resevoir offered some shelter and not for the first time I felt a pang of jealousy at the supported runners that were being met there. Steve and I were running unsupported until the last couple of days when my friend Simon joined us.

Darkness fell quickly at 5pm as we climbed towards Laddow rocks and we summited Black Hill in darkness. I’d last been here twenty years earlier on a Duke of Edinburgh expedition, and the neatly paved slabs were a welcome addition to the interminable peat bogs of yore. The next section is a bit of a blur. I remember the wind picking up and hail sweeping in with increasing regularity. This section was bleak, dark moorland punctuated by a number of road crossings. In the dark and with the weather closing in around us, I felt a real sense of isolation and foreboding. This definitely was no place to mess around. I remember looking towards the distant glow of red lights on the hill top aerials and taking some solace that we were not completely alone. At the road crossing before the M62 we were met by one of the Mountain Safety Teams and Steve’s friend Matt who was volunteering for the week.

Their smiles and words of encouragement were a godsend after the previous stretch we even got a cup of tea. It was at this point that I started to appreciate just how much we take for granted in life. That solitary cup of tea meant everything at that moment.

We grabbed some food and crossed the motorway. I remember looking down at the cars whipping by below, wondering where their drivers were going. I thought of the warm beds they’d be sleeping in and the families they’d be returning to. As we climbed Blackstone Edge, the weather intensified again. The wind was gusting up towards 80 mph and blowing intense hail directly in our faces. I found out later that several racers had to retire at checkpoint one due to eye injuries caused by the hail. In 25 years of winter mountain experience, it was as severe as I’ve experienced. The intense hail blizzard continued as we wound around the reservoirs. It was not until Stoodley Pike Monument that we found a corner of shelter to eat some food. There were three other runners huddling at the base of the looming monument and we teamed up with them to the checkpoint.

On the descent, I realised to my horror that I had dropped my GPS somewhere further up the trail. I stopped for a moment in the driving hail, unable to believe my stupidity. I knew straight away there was no point in going back, I’d last used it about half an hour before and it could be anywhere. I got the impression from one or two other competitors that they were slightly sniffy about the use of GPS (despite it being a required kit item). Clearly, you shouldn’t enter the race without being a very competent and experienced navigator. If your GPS packs up or you drop it and you can’t read a map properly, you could easily get into a life threatening situation . That said, when you’re tired and the weather is horrendous, being able to have a piece of technology that cuts down the amount of time spent standing around looking at flapping maps, is a huge benefit.

I pressed on down the hill into Hebden Bridge. One of the two guys we were with had recce’d the route and led the way. With time at a premium before the race, I hadn’t been able to run any of the route. I’d spent hours poring over the maps, but I knew from previous races that there’s no substitute for experience on the ground, especially when you’re cold and tired as we now were. In my head I’d remembered the section beyond the motorway looking relatively short, but it was a good five hours.

Even at the monument the first checkpoint felt within reach. Fortunately our better prepared companion warned that it was still well over an hour away.

As it turned out, it took nearer two. The descent to the A6033 was relatively easy and the fierce weather started to subside. Reaching the road, deserted and bathed in the cold orange glow of the street lamps, we took a moment to adjust to the sudden incongruousness of the urban environment. A car full of teenagers sped by hooting and jeering. We climbed a painfully steep road before descending across sodden, slippery fields to a river before another log slog up through dark muddy farmland to a road that took us most of the way to the checkpoint. We passed a couple of well appointed camper vans and I looked enviously at their their windscreens imagining cosy runners tucked up asleep having enjoyed a home cooked dinner.

The descent to checkpoint was the crowning turd on what had been an exceptionally hard first day. A narrow, hideously muddy track descended steeply making staying upright almost impossible. We all fell at least once, muttered curses ringing out through the pitch black woods. Eventually we came out at Hebden Hey, a scout centre. It was 03:30 on Sunday morning and we had covered more than 40 miles in 16 hours.

We were welcomed in the porch by a remarkably cheery bloke who took our details and arranged for our drop bags to be brought over. The porch was an explosion of wet, muddy footwear and moving inside it was even more chaotic. Every spare inch of space was taken up with kit or tired runners. Even moving along the corridors was a challenge. Eventually Steve and I shoe horned ourselves into a space in the toilets and started to sort our gear out.

Our pre-race strategy was to use the checkpoints to sleep and re-group, trying to get at least four hours sleep every time we stopped (the logic being that any less has very little recuperative effect). Many pressed on through the night, but we stuck to our plan. I grabbed a quick shower, deciding to make use of comfort as and when it was available and we scarfed a baked potato with chilli before hunting down a bed. There was very little room at the inn.

The idea of trying to get a decent amount of sleep each night was sound. But even with earplugs and an eye mask I struggled. CP1 & 2 are always going to be the busiest, but I found it difficult to sleep all the way through as the stoppages caused congestion at the normally quieter checkpoints 4 & 5. The options for sleeping are perhaps the biggest race strategy call. Bivvying (tough in bad weather) or camping (extra weight) have their disadvantages too. There’s definitely a psychological benefit of having somewhere warm and dry to sleep.

After trying a few packed dorms, I eventually found a spare bed. It was probably spare for a reason. Light from the corridor shone directly in and the door seemed to open every five minutes as other bed hunters sought a place to rest. I slept fitfully, dark thoughts flowing through my mind. After such a hard day the prospect of going on seemed ridiculous. I can understand why so many people decided to stop. I pushed the thoughts away and repeated my race mantra “I’m only stopping if I physically can’t go a step further or a medical professional advises me not to continue”. It helped, but the prospect of another 228 miles after the day we’d had felt terrifying.

“If you start, don’t give up, or you will be giving up at difficulties all your life.”


Alfred Wainwright, Pennine Way Companion (1968)

I got about an hour of partial rest before giving up and going downstairs to sort out my kit for the long leg ahead. Steve slept a bit longer giving me the chance to have a couple of breakfasts and a few coffees before he appeared. The relentlessly cheery and efficient guy that had met us was still on duty. I asked him whether anyone had handed in a GPS, more in hope than expectation. I doubted anyone braving the hail storms would have noticed a GPS lying in the snow. To my amazement, someone had handed it in. This gave me a huge mental boost. It wasn’t so much that I was relying on it (I’m a reasonable map reader and navigator), it was more the psychological blow of having lost it so stupidly, so early in the race.

In the end we spent about 6 hours at checkpoint one. Given the little sleep I got, this felt like slightly wasted time. As we set off into the first light, I did feel mostly recuperated and the ascent of the hideously muddy gully leading to the checkpoint didn’t seem quite so bad in daylight. The day was blustery and fresh, the rain holding off as we wound through the unremarkable flat section towards Cowling.

Here, it started to rain in earnest. Cold grey streaks forcing up our hoods and casting our eyes down into a muddy trudge across sodden fields. We were glad to reach the pub at Lothersadale. A roaring log burner welcomed us and a jovial landlord had turned the pool room into a makeshift checkpoint for muddy Spiners. Rounds of tea and hot food were ferried in as our kit steamed gently on any available radiator.

Leaving this warm sanctuary was hard. So much so that we stopped at the next pub in East Marton too. A small Sunday evening crowd of locals looked on in bemusement as Steve, myself and Jim Tinnion who we’d teamed up with shed our kit. We explained what we were doing and the landlady made a donation to Steve’s Justgiving page on the spot. They sent us on our way with warm wishes, encouragement and crisps. Leaving East Marton, we caught up with another runner who stayed with us until Gargrave before peeling off to bivvy at a spot he knew at the train station. Deciding that a stop at the hostelry in Gargrave would constitute a pub crawl, our plan was to press on to checkpoint 1.5 and bivvy near there. The section after Gargrave was horrendous. Field after field of sodden, cow churned bog sapped our spirits and the rain returned to torment us with squally showers. By the time we reached Malham village at around 2am, we had all reached our limits and knew we had to stop. Still an awful long way to go

We scouted a few bivvy spots before deciding to use the public toilets. Jim slept with a couple of german competitors in the ladies and Steve and I bagged the gents. I drew the short straw and got the urinal end. Utterly exhausted I crawled into my bivvy bag and pretty much passed out. We’d agreed two hours sleep, but it seemed like 10 minutes later when Jim appeared at the door. Steve and I blundered blearily about pulling cold wet kit onto our tired, complaining bodies.

Setting off into the dark and rain again was one of the lowest moments of my race. More dank, boggy fields led to slippery treacherous limestone before we eventually hit a road up to the field centre and checkpoint 1.5. Dawn was starting to break as we stepped into the main room at Malham Field Centre. We were surprised to see a large group of runners trying to sleep with their heads down on the tables.

We were told that the race was being held due to bad weather. Not knowing how long we’d be stopped, I pulled on a dry top and found a fragment of space on a heaving radiator for my sodden jacket. Steve and I quaffed tea and ferreted around for food. Biscuits seemed to be the only fare on offer. Our friend Emiko was fast asleep at one of the tables. After a while she awoke and looked around sleepily. Steve had a brief chat. I think she’d taken a wrong turn at some stage and this had set her back.

In future races, Checkpoint 1.5 could potentially be opened up as a proper checkpoint with sleeping areas. It has these facilities already and Spine racers can be found sprouting out of almost every bush and barn around it. Maybe the 60 mile second “day” is just part of the challenge though.

After about an hour we were released from the checkpoint and made our way around the tarn, framed in the bleak winter dawn. As we started our ascent of Fountains Fell the wind harried us from all sides, but I enjoyed the climb. It kept me warm and the gradient never got so steep it became uncomfortable exertion. My reality for hours on end was a tiny cleft between the top of my balaclava and my hood. A small letterbox out into the world beyond.

Descending to a road there were times the wind would support our entire pack and body weight. We were met by a Mountain Safety Team who confirmed what we’d heard at the Malham checkpoint. Pen Y Ghent was off limits due to the high winds and we were diverted at lower level to Horton in Ribblesdale. I can’t honestly remember feeling disappointed. I was tired, hungry and sick of the relentless wind. I simply accepted the instructions.

The cafe in Horton was packed with Spiners and support teams. It was warm and steamy with drying kit. After doing damage to a huge mug of tea and a bacon sandwich, I chatted briefly to a producer from the BBC who was making a documentary about the race. I was quite glad she didn’t try to interview me as I was not feeling very coherent.

Setting off from Horton, Hawes felt within reach. It’s a psychologically important milestone for the Spine Race. Passing through Hawes means that you’re into the race proper. Our plan was to try to sleep at the checkpoint even though there were no beds. We knew that the majority of Challengers would have finished and the noise levels from applause and general hubbub would have subsided.

Our spirits lifted when one of Steve’s friends met us at Cam End with a flask of coffee and walked with us for a few miles. A beautiful magenta sunset picked out the rugged folds of Pen Y Ghent as we climbed over Dodd Fell. Arriving into Hawes and the checkpoint was disorientating. The bright lights of the busy hall were hard to adjust to and I sat for ten minutes on a chair drinking tea and trying to take it all in.

Sunset after Pen Y Ghent

The volunteers at Hawes, and throughout the race, were superb. Nothing was too much trouble and my drop bag was brought over to me along with more tea and food. I fumbled around in my drop bag for ages, my brain unable to deal with the logistical task of gathering what I needed for the next leg. Another of Steve’s friends arrived with fish and chips. The hardship of the race seems to enhance your enjoyment of otherwise everyday pleasures. I don’t think I’ve ever enjoyed a chip quite as much. Having eaten, I decided to sleep before any more kit faffing and found a cupboard off the main room and laid out my Thermarest. I was asleep almost instantly.

I slept fitfully for three hours. Stumbling back into the main hall, Steve was still sound asleep. I also noticed some fairly severe chafing in my arse region that I sheepishly had checked out and taped up by one of the medics (well above and beyond the call of duty). At this point I inexplicably started to become concerned about the cut off times for the race. We’d deliberately taken a fairly steady pace so far. I collared one of the volunteers and together we tried to work out the cut offs, factoring in the complications of the late start and enforced stop. I’m not sure I was much clearer by the end of it, both our sleep deprived brains refusing to do simple arithmetic.

The upshot was that as we prepared to leave I got Steve worried and he set off up Great Shunner Fell like a stabbed rat. It was all I could do to keep his torchlight in view in the distance and I quickly realised that we’d lost touch with Jim Tinnion who had been with us for the previous day or so. I didn’t have too much time to worry about it as I was too busy trying to stay with Steve. When we caught up with Jim later in the race he said he’d stopped to sort out a bit of kit and the next minute we were gone. Sorry, Jim.

As we topped Great Shunner and started to descend, I finally caught up with Steve. It was now snowing heavily and after a short scramble over icy slabs we put on our spikes for the first time and made the long descent to Thwaite. At Thwaite we passed a couple of the safety team checking runners through and caught up with another small group of runners. Not long after leaving Thwaite one of the runners decided to return, saying he wasn’t feeling well.

The GPS came in handy for the next section of fields before we started the long ascent over the boggy black moor towards Tan Hill Inn. Steve was off in front again, obviously having a good patch and heading for the place where, in a strange coincidence, he had got married. I dug in and slogged up the hill. Another blizzard blew in reducing visibility to almost nil as I approached the pub.

Prior to the race I’d voraciously read blogs from previous competitors, desperate to gain insight into the race. Several had mentioned The Tan Hill Inn as a warm oasis open all hours during the Spine. As I leaned into the driving snow my mind conjured images of warm fires and the possibility of hot food. When I eventually arrived at about 5am the reality was different. The pub was shut tight and we crowded into a cramped porch to get out of the snow. I tried to eat a bit, but started to get cold quickly. We set off at a real lick, stomping through the sloshy bogs that led down to a road. OS maps describe an area near here as simply “The Bog”, and they’re not wrong.

The skies cleared and a cold, sharp dawn broke over the blue brown moors as we crossed the busy A67 road. Continuing over Cotherstone Moor to Balderhead reservoir the sun came out and bathed us in a milky winter glow for the first time since the start of the race. The next section to Middleton in Teasdale is a bit of a blur, my mind was already thinking of the beds and food there.

A cold start to the day

We arrived at the checkpoint in the early afternoon. We got a warm welcome from Matt, Steve’s mate from the Mountain Safety Team and goofed around in the car park posing for photos. It felt great to be at the first “proper” Spine checkpoint, about half way through the race. There was lots of space in the checkpoint and we lounged about chatting to Matt. Steve was starving and frustrated that the only food he could get hold of was scrambled eggs. Clearly we’d timed our arrival badly. Matt offered us his room which had an en suite shower. I dived in and spent ages luxuriating in the hot flow of water. Having slept much less well than Steve during the race to date, I was spark out for five hours and generating some serious snores (apparently). Although we stayed at the checkpoint for nearly seven hours in total, it didn’t feel like time wasted.

Arsing about at CP3

As we were leaving the checkpoint we were told by the Mountain Safety Team that we had missed the cut off for the route via High Cup Nick, Dufton and Cross Fell.

Retrospectively, part of me regrets the fact that we didn’t go via these beautiful and rugged parts. At the time I can honestly say that a shorter and easier alternative didn’t bother me in the slightest.

We set off in darkness across the fields that apron the River Tees, the path obscured by ankle deep snow. During the preceding days we’d often talked about how strange it was having the GPS tracker taped to our shoulders. We knew that there were a bunch of people at home staring at the orange dots on the screen as they progressed across the map. At that moment we must have hit an area of cellular coverage because my phone started pinging with texts. One was from a work colleague with a screenshot of the tracker telling me off for going wrong! I looked at the GPS and realised she was right. It was a surreal moment in the middle of the night, alone, but at the same time connected with the outside world. There will be those who would see this as a negative, but I drew solace from knowing that people were thinking about me as I went through this journey.

We passed Low and High Force, the river in spate because of the recent rainfall, before crossing and beginning the detour via Cow Green reservoir. It was here that things started to unravel. Looking back, I put it down to the fact that I was mentally prepared for the tougher route and let my guard down when I looked at the alternative route. It felt straightforward with good tracks most of the way. As we passed another Mountain Safety Team in their bus at the reservoir, the wind whipped up and it started to blizzard again. The climb around Herdship Fell was cold and monotonous. I stopped eating enough and at one stage experimented with trying to sleep whilst walking.

The descent to Garrigill was long, icy and unenjoyable. As we passed through Garrigill there were lots of rabbits hopping about on the village green. Neither Steve nor I mentioned them at the time for fear that we were hallucinating. It was only much later we admitted we’d both seen them. The remainder of the path to Alston is a tired, hungry, exhausted blur. We arrived at the checkpoint in “rag order” as Steve put it. Our drop bags had been held up by the weather, so we sat down to a plate of tuna pasta at 4am. Our bags soon turned up, and as we were faffing with kit the checkpoint staff told us the race was likely to be paused because of an incoming weather system that would bring 100mph winds. I found a bed in one of the dorms and flaked out.

I was woken a few hours later by someone talking loudly on a mobile phone from the adjoining bunk. She was complaining that she’d been forced to withdraw from the race because she’d called out mountain rescue (I later found out that she’d got into difficulty on Cross Fell in the night). I stared at her in exhausted disbelief. All around me tired runners were trying to sleep and she was ranting on the phone obliviously. Everyone else I met on the race was amazingly kind and gracious. There is always an exception.

Heading downstairs for breakfast, the wind was rattling the lintels of the windows. Outside, I could see a bleak brown and white landscape. It made me feel cold just looking at it. The checkpoint was now a very different place. It had become a marshalling point for most runners still in the race. Every available space was crammed with a person or their kit. It was claustrophobic after the days of solitude we’d had so far. Bleak view from Alston CP4 The race was paused until 6am the following morning giving me almost 24 hours of rest. This had positives and negatives. Having bagged a bunk I was able to catch up on some sleep. However, the break made the damage to my body more apparent. My feet swelled up and my arse chaffing hadn’t got any better. By the end of the enforced stop cabin fever was setting in and I couldn’t face another conversation about race strategy or equipment choice. Food was running short and runners were roaming the checkpoint like hungry jackals.

It was with great relief that we set off again, heading for Greenhead. Another psychological boost was that for the rest of the race we would be supported. Being unsupported definitely adds an extra level of challenge. You can only fit so much in a drop bag and having a friendly face and a warm drink along the way makes a big difference.

The trail started out innocuously enough over rolling fields and was unremarkable all the way to Greenhead. Here we caught up with Simon, our support, and stopped briefly at the Youth Hostel mini checkpoint which was large and well equipped. Simon grabbed some teas from the nearby cafe (doing a roaring trade in January with racers and support crews – these guys must love the race). After a short stop we climbed up and onto Hadrian’s Wall. I’d been particularly looking forward to this section. The ancient green sward of turf that stretched out in front of us belied the history of the place. There was a special feeling looking down over jutting stone abutments, sharing the same view as those here thousands of year before.

The Spine Race induced its own sense of timelessness. Day merged into night into day. The only constants were moving forward and surviving the landscape and weather. Here, the huge span of history made the experience even more other worldly.

Hadrian’s Wall

We didn’t have long to ruminate. Half way along the wall, the next weather front swept in and driving rain and wind chased us along the remainder of the wall and down into the horrendous bogs between Greenly and Broomlee Lough. We made the mistake of pressing on and not eating enough, knowing that we had a warm car waiting for us at the next road junction.

When we arrived there, I was again in “rag order” and starting to border on hypothermia. Si had the heating on full blast and had raided a local shop of all of its pork products. Gorging on scratchings and Pepperami, I warmed up. I’d have been in real trouble if he hadn’t been there. The rest of the trail to Bellingham was a dark, boggy soul destroying mess and we arrived at the checkpoint in low spirits just after midnight. I didn’t want to go a step further. Finishing seemed an impossibility.

A port in a storm

“When we walk to the edge of all the light we have and take the step into the darkness of the unknown, we must believe that one of two things will happen. There will be something solid for us to stand on, or we will be taught to fly.”

Patrick Overton

Normally, the race is strung out by Bellingham, but the enforced stop had bunched everyone up and it felt like the checkpoint staff were struggling to cope. By this stage they were probably as exhausted as we were. The sleeping hall was cold and I crammed a few cereal bars down rather than walking out and over the car park to the food area. I hunkered down under a table and tried to get some sleep. This was the last checkpoint before the long push to the finish.

When I woke up a few short hours later, I didn’t feel any better. Everything hurt and it seemed to take double the time to assemble my kit. Fortunately the day outside was a beautiful; cold, but with bright, dazzling sunshine. The first section was extensively flag stoned. Although this made the route obvious, a thick rime of ice made the slabs treacherous.

Sunrise, final day

Simon met us with tea at a road crossing and before long we hit the forested section to Byrness. Apart from a few boggy sections, the paths here were mainly wide clear forest trails. We walked for a while with a couple (I’m really sorry, I can’t recall your names). I do remember talking about particle physics and the Large Hadron Collider, about which I know surprisingly little. We were met outside Byrness by another of Steve’s entourage, and again it gave us a real lift to see a friendly face. The hostel at Byrness had been transformed into a mini checkpoint and was serving hot food. I arrived feeling shoddy but left with a spring in my step and sausages and mash in my stomach.

Approaching Byrness

From Byrness it’s 27 miles to the finish. It feels within your grasp, but as several racers have found out it’s far from in the bag. The sun was almost hot on our backs as we slogged up to Windy Crag and the ridge that we would follow home. On the ridge, the ground under foot was frozen hard saving us from the bogs and allowing fast progress. We delayed putting on head torches for as long as possible to enjoy every last gasp of the wispy pink sunset. As soon as the sun dropped below the horizon, the temperature plummeted and the wind picked up. Any thoughts of an easy stretch to the finish were gone.

Mentally I’d divided the ridge into three sections, with the two mountain refuge huts as beacons along the way. At the first hut we found Matt and his Mountain Safety Teams. We ate a bit of food and left quickly as we got cold. I badly underestimated the time it would take us to reach the second hut. Feeling reasonably good as I left hut one, I started to feel cold and tired after an hour and had to force myself to eat. I ran out of water and everything around us was frozen. Steve had arrived at the Alston checkpoint with his micro spikes, and left without them, despite them being securely stowed in his bag. How he negotiated the icy ridge I’ll never know. The descent to hut two was steep and hazardous. There were three other runners at the hut. One decided he needed to sleep for a few hours to recuperate. Another made hot chocolate using the only liquid he had with him, orange water. An interesting concoction worthy of the final night of the race.

As we left, I made a serious navigational error, getting disorientated and leading us in the wrong direction. Fortunately Matt and the MST were sweeping along the ridge behind us and shouted us back. We continued up the Schil, the last climb of the race. The icy descent provided no respite for Steve. For the first time in the race he started to lose his sense of humour. The amount of extra energy needed to stay upright without micro spikes must have been phenomenal. I stopped at the first unfrozen rivulet and gulped water like a desert wanderer arriving at an oasis.

In a semi-delirious state I thought I was having a heart attack on the final climb into Kirk Yetholm. I remember trying to calculate whether an aneurysm would prevent me from crawling the last mile to the Border Inn. That’s what this race does to you. As we entered the town, the incongruently bright sodium street lamps lit up the village green and we could see a small clump of figures beckoning us over to the pub. We broke into a pained lope and had our photographs taken touching the wall. We’d finished The Spine, Britain’s most brutal race.

“We had done this thing we had set out to do, and instead of becoming larger because of the experience, we became smaller, more humble, more aware of how little we know: about the world in general, about ourselves specifically.”

Richard Benyo, The Death Valley 300

The aftermath

Although the physical toll on my body was less than after tough 100 milers like the Lakeland, my feet swelled massively and I had a couple of blisters. I’d developed ulcers on my tongue and sores on my fingers towards the end of the race. It seemed as though my the body had been prioritising its core over the extremities. Focusing on what was essential for survival. That’s just how far we pushed it. To finish I had to delve more deeply into my mental and physical reserves than I have ever done before.

A deep fatigue took several weeks to pass. My wife said “I’m not expecting you back until the end of January” and she was right. I felt like a shell, a hollowed out husk without life or energy. I was banished to the spare room due to heavy night time sweating as my body repaired itself.

The weight fell off me and looking in the mirror I struggled to recognise the gaunt face staring back. Going back to work, the back slaps and congratulations were welcome but somehow hollow. I felt alone with my experience. No one could understand what I’d been through, the things I’d experienced, the amount I’d endured.

Reading the blogs that emerged after the race made me feel better. The band of crazy brothers were starting to speak at last. It was good to hear from that infinitesimally small group of people that would countenance such an undertaking.

The scale of the race makes it very hard to process mentally. Breaking the race down into micro-sections avoids thinking about the vast overall scale. This can short circuit even the toughest of minds. But little by little I started to piece the race back together. Hour by hour, step by step it became a coherent whole. A body of memory that will abide with me for the rest of my life. An experience so much more precious than any material possession.

I started to write those thoughts down. Eventually they turned into this, a way for me to codify the experience so it doesn’t slip away. For we were there that wild week in January when the Pennine Way turned 50. And we did something that few others will ever do and that only we will ever fully understand.

“What they had done, what they had seen, heard, felt, feared – the places, the sounds, the colours, the cold, the darkness, the emptiness, the bleakness, the beauty. ‘Til they died, this stream of memory would set them apart, if imperceptibly to anyone but themselves, from everyone else. For they had crossed the mountains…“
 Bernard DeVoto, The Course of Empire (1952)

 
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from Daniel Kaufman’s Blog

The $10K Nudge: What Orlando’s New ADU Program Gets Right About Workforce Housing

Orlando just did something most cities talk about and never actually fund. The City Council approved an Accessory Dwelling Unit Incentive Program that pays homeowners real money to build small rental units on their existing property, as long as those units go to workforce and moderate income renters.

I spend most of my time on employer anchored workforce housing at scale, so a program like this catches my attention for a different reason than most people reading about it. It is not a development deal. It is a supply tool. And supply tools that do not require a rezoning fight or a three year entitlement process are rare. What the city is actually offering Homeowners who build an ADU and rent it at an affordable rate get three things stacked together. A build out rebate of up to $10,000 toward construction costs. A full rebate on park, transportation, and sewer impact fees, which typically run $1,300 to $3,100. And a full rebate on building permit fees, usually $450 to $1,050.

Add it up and the city is covering somewhere between $11,750 and $14,150 of the cost to add a unit, before a homeowner spends a dollar of their own construction budget. That is a meaningful dent in a project that might otherwise run well into six figures.

The city is also building a library of pre approved ADU plans, reviewed in advance for code compliance, so homeowners are not starting from a blank sheet with an architect. New York has done something similar with its ADU for You program, a set of pre vetted designs that skip a lot of the early back and forth with planning departments. If Orlando executes on this the way it is described, it should cut real time out of the permitting process, which is usually where these projects die of a thousand small delays.

The strings attached

To actually collect the rebates, the unit has to be leased to someone earning at or below 120 percent of area median income, for 12 of the first 24 months after the certificate of occupancy is issued. That requirement is waived if the tenant is 62 or older, which is a smart carve out given how much senior housing demand overlaps with small, single level units like these.

There are physical limits too. The ADU, plus any new driveway, patio, or walkway tied to it, cannot exceed 500 total square feet. The house, the ADU, and all paved surfaces on the lot combined cannot cover more than 55 percent of the property. No building in the front yard, no building on an easement, and a 10 foot setback from every property line.

The program runs through the end of 2027 or until the city’s allocated funds run out, whichever comes first. Why this matters more in Orlando than most cities

Orlando’s housing problem is not generic. It is a tourism and hospitality economy, which means a large share of the workforce is service sector, often on non traditional schedules, and often looking for something shorter term or more flexible than a standard 12 month apartment lease. Standard multifamily supply has never been built with that renter in mind. A backyard unit, owned by a neighbor rather than a REIT, fits that gap better than people give it credit for.

I have seen this dynamic up close in the markets I work in, where the workforce housing problem looks different but rhymes with Orlando’s. Employer anchored and community scale housing solves the volume problem. Small infill tools like ADUs solve the distribution problem, getting units into neighborhoods near where the jobs actually are, without waiting on a 200 unit project to clear entitlements.

The honest limitation

A 500 square foot cap means this program is not solving for families. It is solving for single renters, couples, and seniors, which is a real segment of the affordable housing shortfall but not all of it. And the program only works at the pace homeowners choose to participate, there is no way to force adoption the way a city can mandate density on a rezoned parcel.

None of that makes it a bad program. It makes it what it is, one tool in a toolbox that has been short on fast, cheap options for a long time.

Programs like this will not solve Orlando’s affordability crisis by themselves. But paired with larger scale workforce housing development, they add supply in places large scale development cannot reach, on a timeline large scale development cannot match.

That combination, small fast wins alongside the big anchored projects, is usually how these problems actually get solved. Not with one silver bullet, with a dozen tools all pulling in the same direction.

If you’re working through ADU policy in your own market, thinking about workforce housing solutions, or just have thoughts on programs like this one, I’d like to hear them. Email me directly at danielk@outlook.com.

 
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from Plain Sight

COVID-19 Retrospective: Epistemic Failure, Institutional Self-Protection, and the Lessons We Still Refuse to Learn

By Publius (of the 21st Century) — No. 10

August 2, 2026

On July 29, 2026, Dr. Anthony Fauci, former director of the National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases, appeared before the Senate Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs Committee. The hearing should have examined what the United States got wrong during COVID-19 and what must change before the next pandemic. Instead, it produced the same reflex that distorted the pandemic itself: convert institutional uncertainty into a referendum on one man's guilt. Call it the Verdict Reflex — the habit of treating a systems failure as a trial, because a trial has a verdict and a systems failure only has a diagnosis.

A Hearing Built for a Verdict, Not a Record

Chairman Rand Paul framed his questions as long, prosecutorial statements, repeatedly interrupted Fauci, and treated disputed propositions as settled fact. Fauci invoked the Fifth Amendment 111 times, telling the committee: “Although it pains me to do so, because of the respect I have for the legislative branch of government, and my decades-long record of cooperating with Congress, under the advice of my attorneys, I will invoke my right under the Fifth Amendment.” He supplied almost no substantive testimony. Paul seemed more interested in staging a verdict than discovering facts. Yet Fauci's silence was also troubling, especially given that President Biden had granted him a pardon covering federal offenses connected to his official service from January 1, 2014, through January 19, 2025 — protection that, on its face, left little for a Fifth Amendment claim to guard against. A serious inquiry would have tested the privilege question by question, followed the documentary record, and separated proven fact from insinuation. Instead, uncertainty became certainty, disagreement became disloyalty, and an institutional question became a struggle over one man's innocence.

What the Diary Actually Says

The lab-origin debate shows how fast scientific uncertainty politicized. In January 2021, Bret Weinstein and Heather Heying argued on Real Time with Bill Maher that accidental laboratory origin had been dismissed too quickly, pointing to efficient transmission, the unusual furin cleavage site, and Wuhan's bat-coronavirus research. Their strongest point was not that these features proved manipulation — they did not — but that the hypothesis was scientifically plausible and should not have been rejected because President Trump promoted it. Hypotheses are not validated or invalidated by their political sponsors. Some of their claims did exceed the evidence; later epidemiological work strengthened the case for a Huanan market outbreak. The honest conclusion was never “proved” or “debunked,” but provisional.

Fauci's own diary confirms the origin question was never merely an internet theory — and it says more than a gentler paraphrase would suggest. On January 31, 2020, Jeremy Farrar conferenced Kristian Andersen into a call with Fauci; Andersen and Edward Holmes had seen the sequence and flagged the furin cleavage site. The next day, Farrar convened a larger call — Andersen, Holmes, Robert Garry, Andrew Rambaut, Francis Collins, Patrick Vallance, Ron Fouchier. Fauci's notes recorded that the site “could not have occurred naturally, since it would require an evolutionary jump they found nowhere in bat isolates,” and that all but two of the scientists on the call “felt that deliberate insertion was possible.” Fauci wrote that the group raised “the possibility that this could have been deliberately inserted and either accidentally released or deliberately released by a crazy person in the lab, the former being the most likely.” That is a stronger private assessment than the public “circular arguments” dismissal Fauci offered by May 2020 — a real gap between private uncertainty and public confidence. It does not prove a cover-up: proposing an international review is not concealment, and Andersen has since called the episode “a clear example of the scientific process,” in which new data shifted the group's conclusions. Both things are true at once, and the piece should hold them together rather than picking one.

An Interested Party Grading Its Own Homework

NIAID was not a disinterested referee. American funds passed through EcoHealth Alliance to the Wuhan Institute of Virology for bat-coronavirus research. The HHS Inspector General later found NIH had failed to monitor the awards effectively, missing EcoHealth's own reporting failures for nearly two years. None of this proves NIAID-funded research produced SARS-CoV-2 — the known grant-linked viruses are not shown to be direct progenitors — but the funding relationship created a real conflict: the agency exposed to criticism over its own oversight was also helping interpret the origin question. That called for an investigation independent of NIAID, not an assumption of Fauci's guilt, and not reliance on his institutional circle to certify its own innocence.

Paul's parallel inquiry into Fauci's private prizes and the use of government staff on nomination materials raises real ethical questions — who initiated them, whether recipients expected favors, whether funding decisions were touched. Legitimate, but it does not explain the pandemic, and folding it into the same hearing let process questions and origin questions contaminate each other.

What the Rest of the World Actually Tried

The international record is more instructive than another Fauci-Paul round. Sweden leaned on voluntary distancing; its outcome was neither triumph nor catastrophe — better than the US, Italy, Brazil, and Peru, worse than Norway, Denmark, and Finland, with a real mortality cost concentrated in elder care. New Zealand, Australia, and Taiwan did not defeat the virus; they bought time with border controls and quarantine until vaccines and better treatment arrived. Peru showed what legal commands do without institutional capacity — a strict lockdown collided with informal labor, crowded housing, and an oxygen supply chain that couldn't meet demand, producing the world's highest excess-mortality rate. And the age gradient was stark almost everywhere: in wave one, deaths under 50 were rarely more than 1–2% of the total in wealthy countries. Policy should have concentrated on nursing homes, hospital infection control, and rapid treatment for the old, and had far less justification for prolonged blanket restriction of the young once that gradient was clear.

The Question That Actually Matters

Origin is not a side issue, because it determines the prevention regime. Zoonotic spillover points toward wildlife surveillance and market regulation. A lab accident demands rethinking gain-of-function research, biosafety, and independent inspection. The real question is larger than whether Fauci lied or Paul behaved badly: should humanity keep running experiments whose upside is speculative and whose worst case is global? Three changes would follow if the answer is taken seriously:

  1. Independent risk-benefit review for any research that could create a pandemic-capable pathogen, sited outside the agencies that fund the work — so the reviewer and the grantee are never the same institution.

  2. International registration and enforceable reporting for high-risk projects, with real penalties for the kind of multi-year reporting lapse the HHS IG found at EcoHealth.

  3. Mandatory, external, timely disclosure of laboratory incidents — not investigations that begin only after a subpoena.

None of that requires knowing, today, whether SARS-CoV-2 came from a market or a lab.

What to take from this?

The hearing pointed in the wrong direction because it treated the pandemic as a morality play between prosecutor and defendant. The questions are legitimate — Fauci's pardon and silence deserve scrutiny, Paul's methods deserve criticism, Wuhan-related funding requires independent examination, and so do the failures of the CDC, Congress, state governments, and the scientific press. But the lesson of COVID-19 is not that one man betrayed the country. It is that institutions protect themselves, political camps simplify uncertainty into loyalty tests, and societies mistake a verdict for an inquiry.

Senator Rand Paul got his scalp. Nobody got a safeguard.

 
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from TechNewsLit Explores

Sen. Catherine Cortez Masto speaking at a lectern

Sen. Catherine Cortez Masto (D-NV) at Center for American Progress, 29 July 2026

Catherine Herridge speaking at a lectern

Catherine Herridge speaking at the National Press Club, 21 July 2026

The Technology News & Literature portfolio at the Alamy photo agency has new images of political and media figures available for download. Photos of Sen. Catherine Cortez Masto (D-NV) and television journalist Catherine Herridge were captured and added to our collections in late July 2026.

Sen. Cortez Masto spoke on 29 July at the Center for American Progress in Washington, D.C. about legislation she introduced to address the needs of long-term undocumented residents of the U.S. Cortez Masto said the proposed Fairness for Immigrant Families Act provides a pathway to citizenship for long-term undocumented residents, limits their detention time for immigration infractions, and cracks down on fraudulent immigration law representatives called notarios.

Herridge — who reported on national security and intelligence matters for ABC News, Fox News, and CBS News — read a statement at a 21 July National Press Club event on press freedom about her pending Federal civil contempt case. In that case, she refuses to disclose sources of her reporting at Fox News in 2017, for which a Federal court imposes fines of $800 a day. Herridge says her legal team plans to appeal the case, with its First Amendment implications, to the U.S. Supreme Court.

The new photos of Sen. Cortez Masto and Herridge are found in the TechNewsLit portfolio at the Alamy photo agency. That portfolio also has separate collections for recent photos of government and political leaders, as well as media and business notables.

Copyright © Technology News and Literature. All rights reserved.

 
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from hypocritepoet

Oh! What a Lonely Boy

It's been a helluva week. This client project was exactly what they always are: crazy. But, I'm getting them work they want to see and by week's end, we should have happy client and I'll be up 15K. Which is CRITICAL since I traipsed all over Europe for 3 months and spent a 4th in Florida.

In truth, I'd like to take that 15k and just drive into the wilderness. I'm hungry for new horizons again. New adventures.... while I'm busy writing about Europe, all I can do is think about what comes next.

I want to find another roasted chicken lunch on the Seinne, another Shakespeare and company. More naked swimming in Antibes, sleeping over the Picasso museum. Listening to the waves rake over pebble beaches, dodging hawkers in Barcelona, weeping at the top of the world in Switzerland... sleepless walks on Lake Como.

God, i LOVE getting lost in old European towns!!

BUT, today, reality insists I keep grinding.

I just packed my wife into the car for a week of education a few hours from here. She and her sister will be in class Monday-Saturday getting reinforced, edified, built up and made better.

Which is good. I know Ng hasn't been the same since her sister and dad died 18 months ago. And I've been a mess since long before that. I definitely don't know how to fix her.

My heart and mind are both a mess. And I think a big part of it is where I live. Dust Meridian isn't kind to tender souls. It's not welcoming to artists. But then again, I don't know that anyplace really is.

Ironically, art is what keeps me tethered to sanity, however tenuous it may be.

Currently listening to Andrew Gold. Love his song 'Lonely Boy' Feels very very apropos for this strange soul.

https://open.spotify.com/track/6wGMLoEqD2k3RBXFHD0yUp?si=e342c9ca35ae4050

I'm working through my list of songs from my... not sure how to define someone who became part of my mortar... I'll just say from one of the kindest and most loving souls I ever met. My DJ.

I haven't been listening to a lot of music lately. It's been to hard. But reality is I have to find a way to move forward knowing that she's out there and doing fine. Or at least existing. Well cared for and healing.

I want to tell you all the story. But I'm not there yet. For now, I'll keep opening my heart a little at a time and telling you and me about the way of things in a complicated mind.

For sure: This will be a very hard week for me. I like to be alone, but right now, it's not good timing. Right now I need friends. I need to be reminded that I am valuable and loved.

Knowing a thing and feeling a thing are VERY different.


He has an enormous , giving heart. He is open to exploring new ideas, particularly in literature and the arts. He is whole souled in his devotion to his Creator and god. He self sacrificingly serves his congregation and his wife of 30 years, although it feels like love going down a drain .

Wolf is a passionate Scot who thinks critically. He is largely misunderstood by those in his milieu, which is Nowhere, Texas. Folks around him think small, live small, don't travel, and drink for entertainment.

Wolf has manic depressive disorder, but is trying to be faithful about medicating. He has developed high blood pressure as well, most likely from the strain of his personal relationships.

Recently, wolf has discovered new things about himself. He would like the people around him to know him better, but this comes at a price. He has been over compliant in the past and would like to be more assertive. This confuses some people, and wolf is sensitive to their perceived disapproval. ( He ought to just say, Too bad) His second wife is supportive but asks unvarnished honesty from him. His self preservation has left him wary of letting his defenses down at the risk of exposure and hurt. This is very deep is his psyche, having been abused as a child, and a victim of unscrupulous family members who ought to have cherished him. This causes much sadness to both him and wife 2.

Wolf is a wonderful man. He is joyful, cries easily, and has a contagious joie de vivre. He is improving his Scrabble game. He is finishing books he started. He loves novelty and surprises. He goes deep in his research. A good public speaker, he will be giving the talk one day. Go see it💙👀


I come back to this with frequency. I get a lot of praise, but it's generally pretty vague or related to 'thank you for this task'.

That's likely a truism of most people.


12/12/25

From the park of the National Palace in Madrid, Spain

Out for a walk this evening it's 5 PM sun is setting. We are at the What is this? It's the National Palace. kind of swanky up the hill. The garden is gorgeous. Even in wintertime, the grass is bright green. The trees are all amber. The ones that still have leaves. Most of them have carpets of amber under them, but most of the leaves have fallen off. And I am drawing a fountain. It is looks like some Neptune guys with some baskets of fruits on their hand. And, uh, yeah. Let's see. No water, though. Turned off for the winter. Guess that makes sense, so they don't want to freeze. It's very, it's a very winter day, but not unpleasant. It's cold. Cool, but not cold, I guess. Not uncomfortable. You know, that painful cold that comes, I bet you do I'll bet you do. I love the way people's feet crunch on the gravel.. And everyone's so happy, they're all super upbeat. It's funny he doesn't sound the same when I walk on it. Because the sound comes to you is different (reflected) than the sound of others (direct). There are couples and families.

HEY!, there's naked ladies up there. I miss that. God, I miss drawing the naked ladies. I was busy drawing the naked men. That's all right. They have good musculature. All they have these weird fish legs that curl around, like octopus tentacles, which is very interesting to draw and look at. I don't think I'd want to have to ambulate with them.

The rows here are lined with roses, which are all crunchy and faded. Oh, they're damp. You can't hear the birds. The bird, I guess, there's only one. What a pleasant evening.

Our flight was not even full. But we were crammed into two middle seats. On a flight, there were eight rows across. It was a big plane. I was really envying those people in business in first class. But I turned up my music up and managed my little sardine seat. Nine hours, I slept about three and a half. And I couldn't do much writing. I just made notes, like I just was too tired, too stressed.

I'm glad we ended up taking the different flight instead of going to Morocco, though, because I don't know, it was nice to get on a plane and get off. instead of getting on a plane, getting off a plane, get it on a plane, get it off a plane.

Okay. Ooh, this is beautiful, the Palace. The leaves are all yellow and brown. What a great palette. Ah, yeah. Now, THIS is a walk in the park. I've walked into a lot of parks. There is something about European parks that's different. This really puts me in the mind of the last time I was in Rome. in November, let's see, what day is this? December, so pretty close to the same time of year. It was very much like this. Trees, some leaves on the ground, damp and cool, comfortable, just refreshing, relaxing. I feel like if I'd tried a little harder, I could already be on this timetable. But I didn't quite make it, so. I will go to bed tonight. early, and sleep long and hard, and get up tomorrow, early and make a day of it. Ng's ready to get on the road. I think she wants a hotel. I think she's never really been a fan of staying with friends. So we'll probably jet out of Jorge's I think Saturday morning. and get on a train, stop someplace in the middle of Spain. Spend the night in the hotel. Maybe we'll do that Sunday night, too, in Lisbon, and then show up for Rob and Laurie in Porto on Monday like we originally planned. Then again, we could just buy a plane ticket on Saturday and be there in like an hour.

Here she comes. She's looking for me. I'm probably in trouble. I usually am.


“Lonely Boy”

He was born on a summer day, 1951 And with a slap of a hand, he had landed as an only son His mother and father said, “What a lovely boy We'll teach him what we learned, ah, yes, just what we learned We'll dress him up warmly, and we'll send him to school It'll teach him how to fight, to be nobody's fool”

Oh, oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy

In the summer of '53, his mother brought him a sister And she told him, “We must attend to her needs She's so much younger than you” Well, he ran down the hall and he cried Oh, how could his parents have lied? When they said he was their only son He thought he was their only one

Oh, oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy

He left home on a winter day, 1969 And he hoped to find all the love he had lost in that earlier time Well, his sister grew up, and she married a man He gave her a son, ah, yes, a lovely son They dressed him up warmly, they sent him to school It taught him how to fight, to be nobody's fool

Oh, oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy

Whoa-whoa-whoa, oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy Oh, what a lonely boy

 
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from not dead, fyi.

So we're back at it again. I feel bad that I had a week off and I didn't manage to write a single thing. Maybe it's time to just accept that as I reach the end of my fourth decade here on Earth, I've just run out of steam. That sounds so dire, doesn't it? I don't mean it to be as awful as it sounds. But maybe it is.

One whole year. I figured if the anniversary of your passing couldn't get me to pound out a few words at the glowing screen tonight, maybe nothing at all could. I don't know, man. On the one hand, I have a feeling you'd tell me to not be so dramatic, it's just a day like any other. On the other hand, I feel like the past year has slid by and maybe I haven't done enough, I haven't been dramatic enough, if that makes any sense.

Probably not. But, dude, I couldn't even keep the watch wound.

Just a stupid little challenge I invented for myself. You know that watch you gave me? The one that is too nice and too expensive for me to ever wear? And if I'm being honest, I'm just too much of a vacuous slave to our tech overlords: I like my cool Garmin watch that keeps track of a bunch of useless metrics and vibrates on my wrist if someone likes a story I posted on Instagram. A GPS smartwatch is about as far away as one can get from a Swiss mechanical on the timepiece spectrum, and it's clear where my allegiances lie.

It's funny, isn't it? I'm the one who got you interested in this brand of watch, when I told you “If I ever had the money to buy a fancy Swiss watch, this is what I'd get.” You had never even heard of them. A few months later you were so far down the rabbit hole I thought we might never see you again.

So you got me this watch for my birthday, four years ago. I don't even know where you came up with the money, really. It kind of frightened me when you told me that you'd ordered it. And there was a whole bunch of drama where it was delayed and I didn't end up getting it until we met up the first time post-COVID, and I remember being slightly annoyed that it came in a huge box that wouldn't fit in my suitcase.

It's a beautiful, lovely watch. It's awesome and rad beyond description. And yet I will probably never ever wear it out in the world. I wore it outside of my house once, and only once: on your wedding day, because I knew it would make you happy. It did. “It really does look good on you,” you said as we sat across from each other at a restaurant table after the ceremony.

Anyhow. The watch spends most of its time on a little shelf of my old watches in a closet. I once expressed to you how I might be inclined to wear it sometimes but the fact that it had to be wound or worn in order to keep running was an impediment to impromptu decisions to put it on. Having to set it each time was just that smallest extra layer of friction that meant it would probably spend the rest of its existence in the closet.

You sent me links to little contraptions that I could buy off Amazon that would keep automatic watches wound, things that looked like a ferris wheel for watches. Yeah, I don't think I'm gonna be getting one of those anytime soon.

So, I don't know, for no reason at all a few weeks ago I wound it up, put it on, and set the time. And at that moment, a thought popped into my head, “I wonder if I can keep it running until the anniversary of his passing?” I tried to wear it in the evenings, after I'd got home, maybe for an hour or two, and I'd also give it a good winding every time as well.

I was diligent. Until I wasn't. Which was last night. I will admit, as the date approached, I felt more and more unstable in terms of my emotions and my ability to keep track of things. But maybe that's just a convenient excuse. The point is, last night, I forgot to wear it and I forgot to wind it.

And, since it has been a ritual so associated with evenings, I didn't think too much about it this morning. I went out into the world, doing my things, trying my best to not be bummed out, to just live my life and make today a day like any other.

We got home. I realized it was only about an hour until the precise moment. How can I forget the actual time it happened? I mean, it doesn't matter. You were gone already in so many ways, there was no turning back. But, there's still something there, about the point where it became official. Perhaps we all just look for something, anything to cling to, a point of reference in what had been a week of utter fucking despair.

The time. Oh! The watch! Fuck! I forgot! I rushed to the closet and saw that the second hand wasn't moving. Damn, damn, damn. I failed even at this. The weirdest thing was that I realized it had stopped a mere twenty minutes before I'd remembered it. Part of me laments not remembering just twenty minutes or so earlier, and I probably could've succeeded at this (again, totally self-invented and pointless) challenge.

But it also kinda tripped me out that I had remembered then, so close to the point where it stopped ticking. And how close it was to the time where you stopped ticking as well, one year ago. Like how stopped clocks can be used to mark the times of accidents or disasters. It doesn't even make sense in the most generous of interpretations, but somehow I like to think that you were reaching out and reminding me about the watch.

I'm sorry I couldn't keep it wound. I know, you'd say these things happen, it's not a big deal. But still, I cried a little. You asked me why I was upset, why I cried in the hospital room, so I doubt you'd have much tolerance for me doing so over a stopped watch.

I long suspected you were always putting up a bit of a front when you expressed attitudes like that. I even shot something back at you then, a bit incredulous that you earnestly asked why I'd be upset in such a moment.

I've been told, after you passed, that a lot of it was indeed a facade. That you always wanted to appear brave to me. To look invincible. I don't know, I think back to those moments one year ago as little as possible, to be honest. But, you did seem brave. You did seem to have made such a clear choice, it hurt more for me, I think. How could your decision be so cut and dry?

But I try to find solace in that now. I try to remind myself that you made the decision because it was clear to you that it was the right way to proceed. “I just hope I can face it like you in the end.”

I'm trying. I'll keep it wound for as long as I can.

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from albaraaibnm47البراء بن محمد

11:27 نهار الأحد 19 صفر 1448

خلاصة: لا تكرر ثلاثة آلاف محاولة في المسار الخاطئ!

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مقدمة تاريخية:

أشرقت الشمس -قبل 15 عامًا ونصف- على طريقٍ سريعٍ مهدته لينكدن لطالبي الوظائف الباحثين عن الأمل والعمل.

صورة التقطتها من خبر لينكدن عن ميزة التقديم السهل إلى الوظائف واسمها حينئذٍ [Apply with LinkedIn] وذلك في يوم الاثنين 24 شعبان 1432هـ [تقويم أم القرى] واستفدت معرفة التاريخ من مقال Gareth Luby في لينكدن [يوم الخميس 9 جمادى الأولى 1445هـ [أم القرى] المصدر: LinkedIn Pressroom | آخر معاينة: 10:30 نهار الأحد 19 صفر 1448.

رحلة يمضيها المستخدم في دقيقة أو أقل توصله بالموظِّف. فليس عليه بعد ذلك اليوم أن يجهد نفسه بإدخال البيانات مرارًا وتكرارًا في صفحات الشركات التي تتفاوت في مطالبها ممن يتقدم إليها.

صورة التقطتها من خبرٍ في Business Insider عن مزية لينكدن في التقديم السريع وأنها تستغرق أقل من دقيقة [ليلة الأربعاء 26 شعبان 1432هـ [أم القرى] | المصدر: Business Insider | آخر معاينة 10:41 نهار الأحد 19 صفر 1448

تزايدت الطرق السريعة في الأعوام التالية، وتساهلت الشركات في تذليل السبل إليها حتى صارت تكتفي أحيانًا بالملف الشخصي في لينكدن للتوظيف في صفحاتها.

فما حقيقة الطريق؟ وكم دقيقة أمضيتها فيه؟

طريق مشترك!

طريق يسهل أن تسلكه، ويصعب أن تنال منه شيئًا سوى رسائل الرفض والاعتذار التي تتكاثر كلما اشتد السعي وكثرت المحاولة! ولعل رسائل الرفض وقودٌ يحثك على تجديد العزم والمحاولة من جديد!

طريقٌ لست تنفرد فيه بنفسك، بل ترى مواكب السائرين فيه، يتقاطرون من أنحاء الدنيا لينالوا وظيفة واحدة لا تتسع لهم جميعًا!

وكلما زاد أهل لينكدن ومستخدموه اشتدت المنافسة وصارت فريسة الأمس مستحاثة أثرية في متحف اليوم!

مواكب يتقدمون إلى الوظيفة، وأسراب يشتركون في الطريق. والنهاية واحدة لا تسعهم جميعًا، وإنما يبلغها رجلٌ واحدٌ موفقٌ محظوظ!

وما زال الطريق سهلًا يغري بالتهافت عليه، والتهالك على خوضه.

تنافس دائم…صورتان التقطتهما من لينكدن في الساعة 10:44 نهار الأحد 19 صفر 1448، وفي الأولى 53 متقدمًا إلى وظيفة لم تلبث ساعة، وفي الثانية تواريخ مجملة ليست مفصلة وقد حجبت اسم الشركة لقلة الحاجة إلى ذلك.

السجلات فاضحة!

(تذكرت لا عادت الذكريات *** بأني قضيت حياتي موات)! حسن القرشي

سألت منصة لينكدن أن تمدني ببياناتي الشخصية التي أنفقتها طيلة نشاطي في المنصة منذ عام 1440. فوصلتني مجزأة في مجلدين. وفيها جل البيانات التي تحتويها حساباتنا من سجلٍ مهني، وسجل تعليمي، وشهادات، وتوصيات، ورسائل، وأرقام هاتف، وبريد وغير ذلك.

أنصح كل مستخدمٍ في لينكدن بأن يستخرج بياناته الشخصية ويتأمل في سعيه وعمله فيه، ويدرك مقدار ما يستفيده لينكدن من البيانات الشخصية. وما خفي أعظم!

صورة التقطتها لمجلدين من البيانات الشخصية التي استخرجتها من لينكدن. الأحد 19 صفر 1448.

يخصص لينكدن مجلدًا كاملًا للوظائف التي تقدمت إليها ويجمع بيانات التقديم في جدول بيانات واحد يضم 200 سطر في الحد الأقصى أو 90 في الملف الثامن، ولا أدري ما الحكمة من الاقتصار على 7 ملفات ذات 200 سطر، وملفٍ فيه 90 سطرًا.

صورة التقطتها لجداول التقديم إلى الوظائف كما وصلتني من لينكدن وهي بصيغة CSV. الأحد 19 صفر 1448.

كم وظيفة تظنون أنني تقدمت إليها تقديمًا سريعًا في السنوات الماضية؟

2980 وظيفة!

وكم محاولة منها أثمرت مقابلة أو وظيفة؟

2 أو 3 وكلها مقابلات وظيفية!

2980 محاولة خضتها من رمضان عام 1440، ولم تثمر إلا 3 مقابلات وظيفية في أحسن الأحوال!

وأقول من باب حسن الظن: إنني أستثني الأعوام الثلاثة الأولى (1440 و1441 و1442) لقلة المحاولات فيها، وأقدر أن الوظائف التي حاولتها بعد عام 1443 تبلغ 2900. أي أنني كنت أتقدم إلى 800 وظيفة في العام الواحد.

ولو قدرنا أن ثلث الوظائف لم تكن وظائف تناسبني، وأنني تقدمت إليها من باب بذل السبب، فإنها 1934 وظيفة. ونسبة النجاح فيها لا تتجاوز 0.15%.

ألم تكن السهولة المزعومة صعوبة ممتنعة؟ ألم تصبح تلك الدقيقة وقتًا ضائعًا وبياناتٍ شخصية تائهة في أوعية المجهول؟

خلاصة

لست أدعي أن لينكدن مقبرة للوظائف وأن الوهم نتيجة السعي فيها، لكنني أجزم بما عندي من البيانات والتجربة أن التقديم السهل فيها مضيعة للوقت ومحرقة للجهد في غير فائدة.

ووظائف لينكدن التي نلتها -بفضل الله عز وجل- لم تكن بسبب التقديم السريع أو البطيء. لكنها -والله أعلم- بسبب المحتوى الذي نشرته، ونشاطي في بث خبرتي، وتوفيق الله أولًا وأخيرًا.

لم يكن التقديم السريع -وما أسرعه إلى الإحباط- إلا إدخالًا مرهقًا للبيانات وعملًا يدويًا متكررًا ينبغي أن يؤول إلى الآلات الذكية.

تلك خلاصة تجربة شخصية أريدها نصيحة لمن يبحثون عن الأمل ويتلمسون خيوط النور في عمق الظلام الدامس. ليس الأمل أو العمل في تقديم صعب ممتنع وينبغي أن نسميه بعد اليوم Uneasy Apply.

انظر في سجلاتك، واستخرج البيانات من لينكدن عسى أن تصدقك الأرقام بشواهد من الأيام والأعوام على ما مضى في ذلك السعي المتخبط.

نسأل الله تعالى عملًا هنيئًا مريئًا!

وكتب البراء بن محمد!

في الساعة الحادية عشرة وسبع وعشرين دقيقة من نهار الأحد لعشرٍ إن بقين من صفر من عام ثمان وأربعين وأربع مئة وألف.

11:27 الأحد 19 صفر 1448.

 
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from the casual critic

#fiction #films #anime #SF #dystopia #feminism

This year saw the remaster of critically-acclaimed Akira, probably the movie most credited with introducing anime to a Western audience. Like 1982’s Blade Runner from which it draws inspiration, Akira imagines a future so proximate that we are now living it, in this case a vision of the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Remasters generate renewed interest and the potential to bring a classic to new audiences, as well as the chance for the more elderly among us to indulge in nostalgia. It also presents an opportunity for a critical contemporary reappraisal of art that, by virtue of the passage of time, has taken on a second nature as representative of a specific cultural and historical context from which it is ever further removed. Such reappraisals have seen some movies retroactively acquire cult status, while others have fallen from grace and found themselves relegated to the dust heap of history.

Akira appears however to have escaped such re-evaluations, with recent reviews generally reaffirming its cult status and importance to the cultural exchange between Japan and the West, in particular with regards to animation. This is a missed opportunity given both Akira’s richness and its historical and cultural specificity, which should provide plenty of stimulating touchpoints for dialogue with our present moment, especially considering our dystopian zeitgeist and the enduring popularity of the cyberpunk genre. A film that dared to imagine our present moment deserves better than being engaged only in terms of its cultural legacy.

Akira follows the exploits of Kaneda, leader of motorcycle gang the Capsules, as he finds himself and his gang in the crosshairs of a covert military research effort to create humans with psychic abilities (dubbed ‘espers’). A collision with an escaped esper imbues one of Kaneda’s gang members, Tetsuo, with psychic powers, resulting in him summarily being whisked away by Colonel Shikishima to a secret military facility for experimentation. Kaneda’s resolution to free his friend sees him join forces with Kei, a revolutionary, whose cell intends to liberate the espers. What follows is a chaotic crescendo of violence as the hubris of men inexorably raises the stakes, resulting in an epic final stand off between Kaneda and Tetsuo at the construction site for Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Stadium, by which point large swathes of Neo-Tokyo have already been laid waste and the civilian casualties have mounted into their thousands.

The titular Akira himself is not so much a character as the loop around which the movie’s story is wound, functioning both as the point of origin of the movie’s events and their resolution. Though absent, he is the centre of gravity for many of the movie’s protagonists. For some of Neo-Tokyo’s denizens he is an object of cult worship, for the remaining espers a quest for transcendence, for Tetsuo his last hope of controlling his spiralling psychic powers, and for colonel Shikishima a dangerous secret to be supressed.

Both aesthetically and narratively Akira is a tour de force. We start with the high-octane energy of Kaneda’s futuristic motorcycle gang having it out with their rivals, and the movie sustains this frenetic pace until the credits roll. Its visuals embody the gold standard of 1980s Japanese animation, rendering the cyberpunk world of Neo-Tokyo in exquisite detail and its inhabitants with a vital energy. With the notable exception of mechas and kaiju, Akira is a catalogue of futuristic anime staples, from secret government programmes to towering skyscrapers and thinly-veiled references to nuclear destruction. If much of it feels familiar, it is because of how this movie inspired so much of what followed.

Even in the background details, there is a richness and depth that suffuses the film, never leaving the viewer in doubt that there is much more to this world than we get to see. We get snippets of debates in smoke-filled council chambers suggestive of political wranglings that are never explored. Exchanges between NPCs that are there purely as scenery convince us that Neo-Tokyo is filled with people living their own lives, wholly unrelated and oblivious to the unfolding story. Our protagonists come with their implied backstories to which minimal exposition is devoted. All this leaves us with the impression that all we get is a glimpse into this sprawling, chaotic, complex world.

That complex chaos is one aspect of Akira that diverges from many contemporary cyberpunk dystopias. Akira’s central dystopian anxiety is that of chaos and decay, not calamitous collapse or totalitarian control. Neo-Tokyo is a complex system disintegrating under the weight of its own internal contradictions where nobody is in command, and any attempts to exercise control only serves to destabilise the system further. The overriding sense is of a lack of order, apart from what groups such as the Capsules can locally impose, and this is further reinforced by the alienating effects of the inchoate storyline and the soundtrack. Contrary to the claustrophobic control of Silo or The Ten Percent Thief, the chaos in Akira is expansive, too big to contain. And unlike the external collapse of Interstellar or Oryx & Crake, in Akira it is the inherent instability of the society itself that is maintaining it in a state of permanent implosion.

If the rampant chaos and decay are one way by which Akira signals the dystopian status of Neo-Tokyo, the treatment of women is another. Using overt oppression of women as the signifier for dystopia is common, and while it can be done well (most famously in The Handmaid's Tale), Akira's uncritical use of this trope is problematic. Akira features three main female characters: Tetsuo’s girlfriend Kaori, revolutionary Kei, and esper Kiyoko. Kaori’s role is primarily to suffer. Early on in the movie an ill-fated escape attempt with Tetsuo sees her brutally physically and sexually assaulted. Rendered in Akira’s signature vivid style, the harrowing scene is compounded by the suspicion that the (presumed male) audience is meant to find the half-naked and violated Kaori vaguely titillating. Kaori’s only other key appearance is at the movie’s finale, where her ineffectual attempt to calm an out-of-control Tetsuo leads to him crushing her to death. Kaori is easily the most innocent and caring character in the film, and the only one who sees that Tetsuo needs compassion, not machismo. But in Neo-Tokyo, empathy is a fatal liability punishable by death.

Kei’s portrayal is much more sympathetic, and as a revolutionary she has significantly more agency than Kaori. Nonetheless, she is gradually eclipsed by Kaneda even though of the two she ought to be the more capable warrior. Her flaw is a tendency to think before she acts, unlike Kaneda who blunders into situations but surmounts them through sheer force of will. This disempowerment begins shortly after the two characters meet, when Kei’s disinterest in Kaneda’s flirtatious overtures immediately results in an aggressively abusive response from the latter. This is portrayed not as a flaw in our hero, but as an acceptable if maybe somewhat immature way for a man to express frustration at the rejection of his advances towards an attractive woman, and will be painfully recognisable to any female viewers. Akira avoids a a standard romantic arc for Kei and Kaneda after this inauspicious start, but we are nonetheless to understand that Kaneda's boisterous energy and dedication to Tetsuo gradually win Kei over.

Kiyoko, finally, is probably the most effective of the three espers. But while her two male counterparts are depicted as miniature adults, Kiyoko retains the trappings of a little girl, stuck in a slightly bizarre and unsettling father/daughter relationship with colonel Shikishima.

Between them these three characters are undeniably instrumental to the resolution of the story, and the organised, capable and thoughtful Kei in particular contrasts positively with loose-cannon goofball Kaneda. Over the course of the film however, the agency of the female characters progressively erodes, and combined with overt violence against women as an indicator of the dystopian nature of Neo-Tokyo, a latent misogyny suffuses the movie. One might argue that this is simply reflective of the movie’s times, were it not for the fact that Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind came out four years before Akira, proving that dystopian anime with a much more positive female depictions was eminently possible.

A potential counterargument here is that the entire movie could be interpreted as at least in part a critique of toxic masculinity. It is after all propelled by Kaneda and Tetsuo’s inability to express their friendship other than through competition and violent one-upmanship, and it is the incessant desire of men to obtain power and exercise control that pushes Neo-Tokyo deeper and deeper into crisis. Multiple times characters choose coercion and anger over compassion and understanding, fuelling the spiral of violence until it comes to a catastrophic terminus. In this sense, Akira falls squarely in the ‘things men do to avoid going to therapy’ category, although in fairness it seems likely that in Neo-Tokyo mental health services are even more eviscerated than they are in austerity Britain. In the end, Akira doesn't have the self-awareness to pull off this critique, as it does not manage to point at any alternatives, but rather forecloses them as it did with Kaori’s brutal death. At its heart, Akira is too excited about being a movie for boys about boys doing boy things, with fast motorcycles and big explosions.

None of this invalidates Akira’s status as an iconic and historically significant movie, nor detract from the its exquisite craftsmanship, raucously immersive story, and its dystopian critique. It is nonetheless intriguing that its overwhelming spectacle appears to have stunned contemporary reviews into a mere reaffirmation of the cult status we already knew Akira possessed, preventing engagement with aspects of the movie that have aged for better or worse. With nearly forty years between now and the movie’s release, it feels like an opportunity was missed to more critically evaluate Akira and ask what it can offer those who live in the future it sought to anticipate, as well as which of its cultural descendants may have transcended their source material.

Notes & Suggestions

  • This review was inspired and greatly influenced by my partner, and I want to thank her for her suggestions and contributions.
  • Despite the obvious violent or dismissive treatment of women, I only found one mildly obscure commentary on this aspect of Akira. An interesting and more holistic evaluation of many of the themes present in Akira, including alienation, Japanese history and the ubiquitous references to nuclear warfare in anime can be found here.
  • The aesthetic influence of Akira can be clearly seen in Pluto, although there the skyscrapers and technological prowess appears in utopian rather than dystopian guise.
  • A worthwhile counterpoint to the usual failure of action heroes to communicate (or go to therapy) is Marvel's Thunderbolts.
 
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from Platser

Mitt ute i Atlanten, långt utanför Portugals kust, ligger Madeira. Den vulkaniska ön är känd som ”Atlantens pärla” och lockar resenärer med sitt dramatiska landskap, sitt behagliga klimat och sin unika blandning av natur, kultur och avkoppling. I centrum för öns upplevelser ligger Funchal, Madeiras huvudstad, en elegant och charmig stad där historiska kvarter möter moderna restauranger, blomstrande trädgårdar och en vacker kustlinje.

För den som funderar på en resa till Madeira väntar en destination som skiljer sig från många klassiska solresmål. Här handlar semestern inte bara om stränder och bad, utan lika mycket om att upptäcka gröna berg, vattenfall, spektakulära utsiktsplatser och små byar där livet fortfarande går i ett lugnare tempo. Samtidigt erbjuder Funchal allt man kan önska sig av en bekväm semesterstad med bra restauranger, shopping och en livlig men avslappnad atmosfär.

Det första som brukar imponera på besökare som anländer till Madeira är naturen. Ön reser sig dramatiskt ur Atlanten med höga berg, djupa dalar och sluttningar täckta av grönska. Tack vare det milda subtropiska klimatet är Madeira grön året runt, med ett stort antal växter och blommor som trivs i den bördiga vulkanjorden. Hortensior, bananplantor, palmer och exotiska blommor ger ön en färgstark karaktär.

Funchal ligger på öns sydkust, skyddad av bergen bakom staden och med utsikt över Atlanten framför sig. Staden har en lång historia som går tillbaka till 1400-talet, då portugisiska sjöfarare började använda Madeira som en viktig plats under upptäcktsresornas tid. I dag är Funchal en blandning av gammalt och nytt, där kullerstensgator, gamla kyrkor och historiska byggnader samsas med moderna hotell, kaféer och restauranger.

En promenad genom Funchal är en av de bästa sätten att lära känna staden. Gamla stan, Zona Velha, är särskilt charmig med sina smala gränder, färgglada hus och små restauranger. Området är känt för sina målade dörrar, där lokala konstnärer har förvandlat vanliga entréer till små konstverk. På kvällarna fylls kvarteren av liv när människor samlas för att äta middag och njuta av stadens atmosfär.

Ett av Funchals mest kända områden är marknaden Mercado dos Lavradores. Här möter besökaren en färgstark blandning av lokala frukter, blommor, kryddor, fisk och hantverk. Marknaden är en bra plats att upptäcka Madeiras smaker och få en känsla för öns vardagsliv. Här säljs bland annat exotiska frukter som passionsfrukt, papaya och olika sorters bananer som växer på ön.

En av Funchals stora sevärdheter är linbanan upp till Monte, en högt belägen stadsdel med fantastisk utsikt över staden och havet. Resan upp ger en spektakulär vy över Funchal och kusten. I Monte finns också vackra trädgårdar och kyrkan Nossa Senhora do Monte. För många besökare är en tur med de traditionella korgslädarna nerför de branta gatorna en av resans mest minnesvärda upplevelser.

Madeira är inte främst känt som en klassisk badö med långa sandstränder, men det finns ändå många möjligheter till havsupplevelser. Ön har flera naturliga badplatser där man kan bada i det klara Atlantvattnet. I Funchal finns exempelvis badområden med havsbassänger och klippor där man kan sola och bada med utsikt över havet.

För den som vill ha en mer traditionell strandupplevelse finns bland annat Praia Formosa nära Funchal, en av öns största stränder. Stranden består av mörk vulkansand och småsten, vilket ger den en annorlunda karaktär jämfört med de ljusa sandstränderna på många andra semesterdestinationer. Det finns också konstgjorda sandstränder på andra delar av ön, där man får den klassiska känslan av en stranddag.

Den stora attraktionen på Madeira är dock naturen. Ön är ett paradis för den som tycker om vandring och friluftsliv. Ett av de mest kända inslagen är levadorna, de gamla bevattningskanalerna som slingrar sig genom landskapet. Längs dessa leder finns några av Madeiras vackraste vandringar, där man går genom skogar, längs bergssidor och förbi vattenfall.

En av de mest berömda vandringarna går till området kring Rabaçal och de så kallade 25 Fontes, där flera vattenfall rinner samman i en grön dal. Här får man uppleva en nästan sagolik miljö med tät vegetation, rinnande vatten och dramatiska bergsväggar.

För den som söker ännu mer storslagna vyer finns flera utsiktsplatser runt ön. Cabo Girão är en av de mest kända, med en glasplattform högt ovanför havet som ger en svindlande utsikt över kusten. Pico do Arieiro och Pico Ruivo, Madeiras högsta berg, erbjuder några av Europas mest spektakulära bergsvyer för den som vill uppleva ön från ovan.

Madeira är också en destination för den som uppskattar charmiga byar och lokala traditioner. Câmara de Lobos, en liten fiskeby strax väster om Funchal, är särskilt känd för sina färgglada båtar och sin vackra hamn. Winston Churchill besökte byn och målade den under ett besök på ön, vilket bidrog till dess internationella berömmelse.

Längre bort från huvudstaden finns byar där man kan uppleva en lugnare sida av Madeira. Santana på öns norra sida är känt för sina traditionella trekantiga hus med halmtak, medan Porto Moniz lockar med sina naturliga havsbassänger skapade av vulkaniska klippformationer.

Maten på Madeira är en viktig del av resan. Ön har en egen matkultur som bygger mycket på havets råvaror och lokala produkter. En klassisk rätt är espetada, grillspett med nötkött som ofta serveras med bröd och traditionella tillbehör. Fisk och skaldjur är också centrala inslag, särskilt den lokala fisken espada, svart svärdfisk, som ofta serveras tillsammans med banan.

Madeira är också känt för sitt vin. Madeiravin har en lång historia och är en av världens mest klassiska starkviner. Att besöka en vinkällare i Funchal och lära sig mer om tillverkningen är en uppskattad aktivitet för många besökare. Även den som inte är särskilt vinintresserad kan uppskatta den historiska delen av upplevelsen.

Kvällslivet i Funchal är mer elegant än intensivt. Här finns gott om restauranger, vinbarer och mindre klubbar, men atmosfären är framför allt avslappnad. Många kvällar spenderas med en lång middag, en promenad längs strandpromenaden eller ett glas madeiravin medan solen går ner över Atlanten.

Madeira passar många olika typer av resenärer. Par uppskattar ofta den romantiska miljön, de vackra utsikterna och de mysiga restaurangerna. Äldre resenärer lockas av det behagliga klimatet och den goda infrastrukturen. Naturälskare och aktiva resenärer får nästan obegränsade möjligheter till vandring och upptäckter. Även den som bara vill koppla av i vackra omgivningar hittar många lugna platser.

En stor fördel med Madeira är klimatet. Tack vare sitt läge i Atlanten har ön milda temperaturer året runt. Sommaren är varm men sällan extremt het, medan vintern erbjuder ett behagligt alternativ för den som vill undvika kyla. Detta gör Madeira till ett populärt resmål även under månader då många andra europeiska destinationer har lågsäsong.

Det finns några saker att tänka på innan resan. Madeira är en bergig ö, vilket innebär att många vägar är slingriga och att nivåskillnaderna kan vara stora. Den som vill utforska ön ordentligt kan ha stor nytta av hyrbil, men det finns också organiserade utflykter och bussförbindelser till många platser. Vädret kan dessutom variera mycket mellan olika delar av ön. Det kan vara soligt vid kusten och molnigt eller svalare uppe i bergen samma dag.

Funchal och Madeira erbjuder en annan typ av semester än många traditionella solresmål. Här får man inte bara vackra vyer, utan också en känsla av upptäckarglädje. Varje väg runt nästa krök kan leda till en ny utsikt, en liten by, ett vattenfall eller en blommande dal.

För den som drömmer om en resa där natur, kultur, god mat och avkoppling kombineras är Madeira ett resmål som har mycket att erbjuda. Funchal blir den perfekta basen för att upptäcka ön, men det är hela Madeiras variation som gör att många besökare återvänder. Det är en plats där Atlanten möter bergen, där tradition möter modern bekvämlighet och där varje dag kan bjuda på ett nytt äventyr.

 
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from Roscoe's Quick Notes

Houston Astros vs Texas Rangers

Today I have an afternoon MLB game to follow. The Houston Astros and Texas Rangers are scheduled to start at 1:10 PM CDT. As I usually do, I'll follow the game's score and stats in real time via MLB's Gameday Service where we can also find links to the radio-call of the game provided by announcers of either team we choose.

And the adventure continues.

 
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from 🌐 Justin's Blog

Key indicators that I am still improving.

I've been studying Spanish since 2020. Those first three years were tough, but now I'm fluent. Not perfect, but fluent. Honestly, I feel like I reached my ultimate goal and it feels great.

I don't study anymore, but I just try to use the language when possible. This primarily means reading books in Spanish, having conversations (mostly with family), and watching Spanish shows on Netflix. I also make a point to have one to two “lessons” with a tutor from Mexico each week, but it's just us chatting about life.

My progression is a lot slower now in the language. I have my habits now, and I'm not trying to study industry-specific vocab. Everyday language is more useful for me living in California.

But I'm still improving nonetheless. Ways I know:

  • I catch sarcasm. This is a big one because sarcasm is difficult to detect when you're learning a language. I don't get it all the time, but more than before.
  • I use new words. When I learn a new word, I make a point to use it as soon as possible in conversation and commit it to memory. I get this opportunity when I'm with family.
  • I've lost the fear. I don't have any fear when meeting someone new and having a conversation in Spanish. Sometimes accents can be tough, but I manage and it's not a biggie. I'm confident that we'll be able to communicate.
  • Phone conversations are easy. Talking to someone in Spanish on the phone used to be the most intimidating part of the language. Now, I can have normal conversations without needing the visual cues.
  • Passive listening is easier. I'm able to “half listen” to conversations in Spanish and then fill in the gaps. Not as well as English, but still an improvement from when I had to focus intently to understand everything.
  • Lorena asks me for the correct word. Sometimes Lorena will forget a word in Spanish and ask me mid-conversation (and I'll know the word she's searching for). That's pretty cool!

My continued improvement in Spanish isn't like it was before with very obvious leaps, but the incremental changes I'm making now are far more exciting and motivating to me because they represent the language becoming more intrinsic to me as a person.

#personal

 
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from Things Left Unsaid

For most of my childhood I lived in a village with a population of less than one thousand people. It was where two small highways intersected. A few side streets with houses that were all quite unique. Everyone knew everyone else. A small enough village that we would sometimes have to drive to the nearest town if the shops and services on the main street didn't have something we needed. There were fields and farms surrounding it in all directions.

It is funny to me now when I think back to my life in that tiny village. It sometimes feels like I'm recalling a dream, or like past life regression or something. It is just so far removed from my life now here in the city, and is now so far back in time. Another lifetime. Back to a time before the internet existed. Back before cable TV, Nintendo and cell phones. I think back sometimes to that time in general, and recently to one night in particular.

Me and a couple of other boys were all the same age. We would meet up regularly, and find things to do. I was always the quiet one, and I was smaller than the other two. Added to my being small and quiet, the contrast seemed more when they occasionally could be kind of loud and hyper. Sometimes troublemakers. Gave me a feeling a lot of the time that I was along for the ride more than a participant in the action.

The night in particular that I was recently thinking about was sort of an unusual one. We had learned earlier in the day that there was going to be a meteor shower. It was mostly just a typical night, but when sunset began we were riding our bikes around the edge of the village trying to find an open space suitable to watch the meteor shower. Everywhere we tried seemed too near to tall trees, or to sources of light.

One of my friends suggested the field that was just beyond his backyard. We made our way back to his place, and let our bikes fall in the grass before proceeding from the yard out into the field. Daylight was almost entirely gone from the sky by then.

The field had been plowed a few days prior to that night. The furrows cut into the soil were deep even ruts like waves on a lake. They were cracked and hardened from sunny dry days after it was plowed. There was not even a slight breeze, and not a cloud in the sky. If the moon was illuminated that night it would have been less than half, or just a sliver near the horizon. I do not recall. I do recall it being exceptionally dark that night. The kind of deep darkness that can only happen when the moon is either not in sight at all, or not visible enough to be obtrusively bright. Conditions could not have been a more perfect for a meteor shower.

When I got about twenty meters or so out into the field I felt, and said it seemed far enough. Being the smallest of the three of us, traversing over those deep furrows was tough going. From farther out in the field they called me names and laughed (lightheartedly really), and urged me on. It was not as hard for them, and they always had the tendency to take things to another level I suppose. They were likely far enough, but went farther anyway.

The field was not huge, but was big enough that when we got to where they stopped, which ended up being about the middle of it; the lights in house windows and street lights just looked like tiny dots of light on the horizon. I looked back, but couldn't pick out the backyard that we had entered the field from. It made me slightly uneasy.

A few minutes later I rejoined them. They were sitting on the crest of a furrow. I was out of breath at that point, but it settled fairly quickly. Then one of them had the idea to lay right down with the back of his knees over top of the crest of one furrow, and then the next furrow became a backrest. It was perfectly designed for us to lay in. So there we were. Three young boys laying in the middle of a plowed field in the dark, staring up at the sky while chattering away. Young boys being boys, as they say.

Then the first meteor silently cut through the sky almost directly above our gaze, and then disappeared as quickly as it came.

All three of us instantly went silent, and became completely still. That silence and stillness is the most thought provoking part of this memory. Like our breaths slowed, and perhaps we were not even blinking as much for fear that we might miss one. It could have been the first and only time we were together and were still and silent like that. When I think back to that moment in time from now I feel like it held a deeper meaning than we would have been able to articulate, or even be aware of.

To us then we were just boys having an adventure, watching a cool thing happen in the night sky. But when it silenced us, and stopped us, it was like we forgot ourselves for however long we remained there that night. When I look back I see those three young boys laying together in a field in the dark, held to the surface of this planet by gravity. Literally, on the edge of, and gazing into infinity, watching ancient objects from cold dark space violently burning up when entering our layer of atmosphere. I couldn't even take a guess at how long we were laying out there that night, or how many we saw. I do know though that we were transformed for the moments we were there. We had forgotten ourselves, and had become part of something much larger than us.

 
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from Gnostic Paradise

Just as a child outgrows simple rules once they develop the capacity for moral reasoning, humanity has outgrown external behavioral codes now that consciousness has evolved to require direct psychological work. The Ten Commandments, from the time of Pisces, served as training wheels for a developing consciousness—perfectly necessary when humanity required external structure. Now, in the Age of Aquarius, these commandments are not obsolete but fulfilled—their esoteric meaning revealed as humanity matures to engage with their psychological essence rather than merely their external form. We will not destroy the Piscean Commandments but transmute them, revealing their true purpose as the Aquarian Commandments that initiate this new age through direct internal work rather than external obedience.

Behold, we stand before the great gorge between ages. The Piscean Ten Commandments are not where we stand, but the very stones with which we build the bridge to Aquarius. Each transmutation reveals how external prohibition becomes internal work, how behavioral regulation transforms into psychological liberation. The bridge is complete from Pisces to Aquarius from the following:

  1. Thou shalt comprehend and love the Innermost within thyself above all egoic states.

  2. Thou shalt not invoke the sacred forces of consciousness for egoic purposes.

  3. Thou shalt recognize and honor the sacred cycles of consciousness within thyself.

  4. Thou shalt honor thy internal Father (the Innermost) and Divine Mother Kundalini through conscious work.

  5. Thou shalt comprehend and eliminate the anger that kills consciousness within yourself.

  6. Thou shalt eliminate lust from thy consciousness in thought, word, and deed.

  7. Thou shalt comprehend and eliminate covetousness that seeks to take what belongs to others.

  8. Thou shalt comprehend and eliminate the egoic states that create falsehood in consciousness.

  9. Thou shalt eliminate the psychological infidelity that betrays thy Innermost.

  10. Thou shalt comprehend and eliminate the very mechanism of desire that creates perceived separation between self and other.

The first commandment—”Thou shalt comprehend and love the Innermost within thyself above all egoic states”—establishes the supreme priority of consciousness work. It serves as the fundamental principle against which all other psychological work must be measured, creating the ultimate standard for what deserves our attention and energy.

The second—”Thou shalt not invoke the sacred forces of consciousness for egoic purposes”—protects the integrity of spiritual practice by ensuring that all techniques of meditation, prayer, or esoteric work remain directed toward awakening rather than personal gratification, recognition, or power.

The third—”Thou shalt recognize and honor the sacred cycles of consciousness within thyself”—establishes psychological timing as sacred work, teaching that consciousness operates in natural rhythms of expansion and contraction, and that forcing transformation against these cycles represents violation of divine order within oneself.

The fourth—”Thou shalt honor thy internal Father (the Innermost) and Divine Mother Kundalini through conscious work”—reveals the fundamental masculine and feminine principles within consciousness, establishing proper relationship between the divine spark that guides us and the Kundalini force that eliminates egoic aggregates.

The fifth through ninth address the major egoic aggregates that must be eliminated: fifth commandment eliminates anger that kills consciousness; sixth eliminates lust that misuses creative energy; seventh eliminates covetousness that creates perceived lack; eighth eliminates falsehood that fragments perception; ninth eliminates psychological infidelity that betrays our divine union.

The tenth—”Thou shalt comprehend and eliminate the very mechanism of desire that creates perceived separation between self and other”—addresses the root cause of all suffering, recognizing that desire itself creates the illusion of separation from the Being and from others.

Together, these form a complete system of psychological accounting where each commandment balances the others, creating a comprehensive method for transforming consciousness from external obedience to internal liberation.

The first ten commandments eliminate what obscures consciousness; the final two—'Thou shalt do thy duty' and 'Thou shalt make my light shine'—establish what consciousness must actively do once those obscurations are removed. 'Thou shalt do thy duty' represents the conscious performance of obligations across all seven bodies, transforming abstract understanding into concrete action. 'Thou shalt make my light shine' addresses the ultimate purpose of psychological work: allowing the Innermost to express through purified consciousness rather than being obscured by egoic aggregates

From Chapter 25 in Samael Aun Weor’s book: The Aquarian Message, he left behind the Aquarian Commandments reserved for those who want to die for their Innermost:

“First: Thou shalt love thy internal God, and thy neighbor as thy Self.

“Second: Thou shalt study the secret doctrine of the Savior of the world.

“Third: Thou shalt never slander thy neighbor, neither shalt thou utter immodest or vain words.

“Fourth: Thou shalt sacrifice the self for the love of mankind and to love thy worst enemies.

“Fifth: Thou shalt obey the will of the Father on Earth as it is in heaven.

“Sixth: Thou shalt not commit fornication, neither adultery, in thy thought, words, and deeds.

“Seventh: Thou shalt fight against the world, the demon, and the flesh.

“Eighth: Thou shalt be infinitely patient and merciful.

“Ninth: Thou shalt practice the Arcanum A.Z.F. with thy spouse.

“Tenth: Thou shalt wash thy feet in the waters of renunciation.”

With the Aquarian Ten Commandments by Samael Aun Weor, one dies through the Innermost. With this Decalogue, “Thou shalt make my light shine” is already embedded in the First Commandment; likewise, “Thou shalt do thy duty” is already embedded in the Final Commandment.

The Piscean Commandments regulated behavior; the Aquarian Commandments liberate consciousness. The old decalogue protected society through external law; the new one transforms the individual through psychological work. What was once prohibited externally is now comprehended and eliminated internally. This is not the rejection of divine guidance but its fulfillment—the revelation of esoteric meaning that was always encoded within the exoteric form. The bridge is complete, not to abandon the old but to fulfill its purpose: bringing humanity from the age of external obedience to the age of internal comprehension, where consciousness no longer needs rules because it has eliminated the very conditions that would make breaking them possible.

 
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from Gnostic Paradise

Understanding the two Mothers, as Samael Aun Weor expounds in 'The Perfect Matrimony,' is foundational to conscious development. Without this comprehension, one remains psychologically fragmented. The crucible where these two mothers converge is sexuality—the sacred fire that can either forge the Solar Bodies or reinforce egoic structures. Your choice determines whether consciousness invests in liberation or bondage.

The Mother you nourish through your sexual application determines which psychological structures receive energy. This choice rests solely with you.

The Abominable Mother Kundabuffer represents the inverted application of creative energy—consciousness that claims divinity while serving the ego. She is not the mother of Christ, the universal force that can incarnate through the Innermost, even when she claims this title through the ego's voice. When this voice declares itself divine, recognize it as the ego attempting to justify its own continuation.

Those practicing Black Tantra inevitably awaken this mother through deliberate expulsion of sexual energy—conscious choice to direct the sacred fire toward egoic fortification rather than liberation. Samael calls these practitioners 'black magicians,' including those who recommend fornication, recognizing that advocacy for dissipation serves the same function as internal misapplication.

In mythology, this principle appears as Circe—the enchantress who transforms men into beasts, symbolizing how the kundabuffer organ devolves consciousness when awakened through spasm rather than transmutation. This same principle manifests in 'Pinocchio,' where the donkey transformation represents regression that occurs when consciousness abandons the Great Work for immediate gratification. In symbolic form, she appears as Maleficent in 'Sleeping Beauty'—the dark fairy offers immediate gratification that leads to spiritual slumber rather than awakening.

The principle remains: the Abominable Mother has no authority except through the ego's consent to indulge sensation rather than practice transmutation.

The Divine Mother Kundalini represents the purified application—consciousness directed toward spiritualization rather than animalization. She awakens through conscious transmutation of sexual energy—what Samael calls White Tantra: the coitus reservatus where man and woman create the cross without expelling the creative force. This builds the Solar Bodies rather than fortifying the ego, allowing consciousness to gradually eliminate psychological aggregates through comprehension.

While individual transmutation represents one form of internal worship, her preferred method is the Coitus Reservatus between man and woman in White Tantra, as the creative force achieves maximum transformative potential when masculine and feminine polarities consciously unite without expelling the sacred fire.

The battlefield of sexuality becomes decisive because both mothers draw from the same sacred creative energy. The distinction lies in how consciousness directs it—whether we use this force to awaken our divine Essence or strengthen egoic patterns. The same creative fire that can illuminate our inner path can also cast deeper shadows, depending entirely on which aspect of ourselves we choose to feed.

We close with this prayer to our Divine Mother Kundalini:

Divina Mater Kundalini, in me evigila. Vehicula mea purifica. Defectus meos elimina. Vim mihi concede ut iter acuminis gladii perambulem.

Divine Mother, awaken in me. Purify my vehicles. Eliminate my defects. Grant me the strength to walk the path of the razor's edge.

 
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from Gnostic Paradise

Marriage is a commitment that no one can take lightly. It is a serious, loving, and lifelong union. It is an unbreakable bond, for it is permanent, irreversible, and irrevocable. Only the betrayal of adultery and fornication can dissolve the sanctity of marriage.

Marriage is a sacred union between a man and a woman. All other unions are considered abominable and perverse in the eyes of the divine. Those who approach marriage without reverence find themselves unprepared for its demands. Such unions often fracture under pressure, leading to divorce—a path that requires beginning the spiritual work again. Marriage demands inner strength and commitment, for it is the forge where consciousness is tempered and refined. Divorce represents a detour from this sacred work, while marriage offers the direct path to spiritual maturity.

For those who have stumbled, the path of redemption remains open through conscious work. Just as a wounded body can be healed through proper care, the soul can be restored through sincere repentance and the practice of transmutation. The Elohim judge not to condemn but to offer the path of return – for where sin abounds, grace can abound much more when the consciousness awakens.

The basis for marriage is the coitus reservatus, the holy use of sex. It has nothing to do with forms, words, contracts, or rituals. It is sacred among the Gods and Goddesses. The name of the Gods and Goddesses is the Elohim.

“Marriage is honorable by all, and the bed undefiled; for the adulterers and fornicators, the Elohim will judge” – Hebrews 13:4 People know how to get married, yet many struggle to make it work. It is their failure to comprehend the proper use of marriage that leads to divorce and despair. All marriages fail due to one's inability to understand the seriousness of marriage.

Whosoever marries their spouse, their life changes forever. Whenever you get married, there is no turning back.

Boyfriend and girlfriend, before wedlock, must take vows of chastity forever. None of them must eat the forbidden fruit. To eat the forbidden fruit is fornication. Those who fornicate will never live happily ever after. Both couples must slowly prepare themselves for the coitus reservatus. Months to prepare oneself for the arcanum with one's spouse are paramount. Once they do the coitus reservatus, the holy cross is permanent. A man and a woman are married for life, and their honeymoon will last a lifetime.

Each spouse must undergo permanent responsibilities. The man must sacrifice his last drop of blood for his woman; likewise, the woman must sacrifice her last drop of blood for her man. The selfless sacrifice is the doorway to heaven.

Let this truth be known for all men and women: when a man and a woman have sex for the first time, they are permanently married. The secret of having sex is to introduce the virile member into the vagina and withdraw it without spilling the divine seed through the orgasm. The secret is the coitus reservatus, as Samael Aun Weor emphasized.

Through the holy sex, both couples re-enter the Garden of Eden to conquer all paradise lost.

Sex and marriage are one.

 
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from Gnostic Paradise

Men, make your light shine. You, men, are the sunlight that gives life. You, men, represent the solar force or the sun. You, men, are the representation of eternal light. You, men, are the giver of life and love. Life and love are the same. You, men, carry the solar corona, emitting from your body, radiating outwards. You, men, alone have the potential to shine the moon from without and within. It is performed with your heart, o men, giving life and love unto the moon.

The moon is your woman. She is the lunar force. She is receptive and fragile, a living being full of love. She is the grail that gives life to man. If you, men, fail to shine like sunlight, the moon appears extremely dark. None of you, men, shall break the fragility of the moon, or the moon appear dark.

Therefore, men, your role is not just to shine, but to nurture your woman with love. It's a mutual exchange of energy. Cuddle your woman, encourage her with your sunlight, and in return, she will love you back. This reciprocity is the essence of a harmonious relationship.

Women, when they shine like full moons, are a sight to behold. Their beauty is unparalleled, like the radiant moon on a starry night. How lovely are women who are nurtured by caring and heartfelt men? Their beauty is a reflection of the love and care they receive.

She is your greatest treasure, men, far more precious than gold and silver can amount to.

Women, like full moons, radiate beauty and strength. They are the nurturers, the ones who enrich the relationship with their care. How beautiful are they when they are loved and nurtured by caring men?

Both man and woman shine like stars in a starry, clear night, lasting for eternity.

Let us, men, snuggle with our women to create the cross.

May man in his bed nurture his woman with all his love so both shall sleep peacefully together. May the light of the cross reach the heavens, the abode of the Elohim. May the power of the cross be heard upon the Heavens. May the cross be holy.

The matrimony is honored by all. The letter “M” represents matrimony, derived from a double runic letter: the two Lafs. Each of the two Lafs, both left and right, represents a man and a woman holding hands in the Perfect Matrimony. With the two Lafs, man nurtures his woman with his sunlight so that she shines as the full moon. She blossoms like a pure flower enriched by the sunlight. She is the full moon of full moons.

Men, remember, you are the sunlight, and your woman is your full moon. Your love for your woman is not just for a moment, but it lasts a lifetime, like a perpetual honeymoon. Love, in its true essence, is immortal and everlasting, a source of hope and inspiration.

 
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